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1. Check size, style and handing against order.
2. Before removing the existing window check opening sizes; remember the new window should be approximately 10 mm smaller in height and width than the brick opening.
3. Remove curtains, blinds and ornaments etc from the existing window
How To Remove Existing Window.
1. Cover flooring with dustsheets inside and a groundsheet outside.
2. Using screwdriver and nail bar remove all opening sashes
3. To remove glass in remaining window fixed lights (wear heavy duty gloves and goggles) carefully crack glass with the tip of a screwdriver or punch. Always start at the top corner from inside the window, remove cracked shards and deposit immediately into plastic bin.
4. With a Stanley knife on inside of window, break plaster seal around surround of window frame where it meets the wall decoration.
5. Using crosscut saw, cut through the remaining vertical (mullion) and horizontal (transom) frame members and remove them.
6. Paying attention to minimise damage to plaster and brickwork, cut through the outer frame jambs, head and cill of the window frame.
7. With careful application of the nail bar, it should now be possible to lever the framework away from the plaster line with minimum disturbance.
8.
1. Cill (where required): Position the cill profile onto the brickwork, such that the up stand is snug against the plaster line of the jambs (it may be necessary to trim the 'horns' to fit around the brickwork. Before cutting the cill make sure you have deducted the width for the cill end caps.
2. Using a line of silicon on flat rear edge of the cill, this is to the inner room side of the cill, the reason is to stop rain water getting between the window and the cill then penetrating into the inside of the room.
3. To secure the cill to the bottom of the new window, turn the window upside down and screw trough the bottom of the cill into the bottom of the window, 50mm screws are ideal, normally at 600mm centers. Stick the cill end caps on; any excess silicon can be trimmed off when dry.
4. Remove all glazing beads from the window frame, marking them accordingly to ensure they can be replaced into the original position. Use a pencil.
5. Offer the new window into position, with spirit level, ensure the new window is positioned vertically and horizontally level, against the internal plaster line.
6. Wedge the window into position using the plastic packers provided or have someone on the outside holding the frame to stop it falling out.
7. Do not bend the framework by over packing.
8. Secure the window jambs into the brickwork surround using 70mm to 100mm frame fixings the length will depend on the masonry you are fixing into, again 150 mm away from each corner weld and at ±600 mm centres thereafter.
9. In all cases ensure that the screw heads are not standing proud as this may interfere with the glass positioning. Note: it is not advisable to attempt bolt fixing in the head of the window, as this may permanently damage the structural lintel of your window, the best solution for fixing the head is to use expanding foam, we are able to supply, please ask for a price.
10. Close and lock all opening sashes, check for square ness within the outer frame.
Preparation for glazing commonly known as toeing and heeling.
Side hung windows and Doors
(WHERE TO INSERT GLAZING PACKERS).
1. Position glazing packer, as above. In the case of side hung sashes also silicone them secure to stop them moving. Offer the appropriate glass sealed unit into the aperture, resting squarely on the glazing packers, ensuring the glass is central within the opening.
2. Push the glass back into the rebate as far as it will go without using undue pressure.
3. Using hand pressure only, position additional glass packers to square up where necessary.
4. Gently unlock and open the sashes to check that no binding occurs within the locking system and no movement occurs between the glass and frame, minor glass packer adjustments may be necessary to achieve perfect squareness.
5. If the weight of the glass loads the sash down then small packers need to put where A is in above diagram this is between the glass and the frame. By doing this the frame will be lifted on top of the glass.
6. Clip back the pre marked glazing beads into the original position fitting the bottom in first whilst doing this be careful the glass doesn’t fall in from the top onto you a spare pair of hand is always a help just to hold the top of the glass.
7. Remove all protective tape from the faces of the window frame, clean where necessary with warm soapy water and a soft cloth.
8. Clean all glass with a good liquid glass cleaner and soft cloth. NEVER USE WINDOWLENE
9. Make sure all surfaces are dry then carefully gun a bead of silicone between the outside masonry and window frame periphery, wiping off any excess.
10. Similarly, gun a thin bead of acrylic between the inside plaster and window from the periphery. Allow all sealants 48hrs to cure.
11. If you require finishing trims we can also supply prices for these on application.
12. If you have not used a silicon gun before it’s wise to practice first don’t over pump the trigger less is more and a steady hand will make a tidy seal.
Good luck and use us if you need us; we really want you to make a great job of these quality diy upvc windows and doors.
Thank you for your custom.
Kind Regards.
Simon Gingell. M.D
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